How Climbers Are Protecting Massachusetts' Most Popular Rock Climbing Area

Farley Ledges in western Massachusetts just got a major boost for its future. In December 2025, climbing advocates secured 70 acres of land that will transform how thousands of climbers access this beloved crag each year.

Why Farley Matters

Farley Ledges rises 700 feet above the Millers River in Erving, creating a dramatic wall of granitic gneiss rock. It's the closest major crag to Boston, making it the most accessible serious climbing destination for millions of people in southern New England.

The rock itself makes Farley special. Gneiss forms smooth horizontal ledges with small edges and sweeping features. With more than 400 roped routes and an equal number of boulder problems, Farley offers something for everyone. Routes range from beginner-friendly 5.4 climbs to advanced 5.13+ challenges.

Twenty Years in the Making

The Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition started working on Farley access back in 2007. They purchased a small parcel and built a 16-car parking lot with a trail to the cliffs.

The 2025 purchase changes everything. This 70-acre parcel gives WMCC room to build proper infrastructure. Plans include a larger parking area that can hold 60 vehicles, improved trails, and access routes for emergency vehicles.

The project got funding through the Access Fund's Climbing Conservation Loan Program, with additional support from the Community Foundation of North Central Massachusetts and Central Rock Gym.

Getting There

Farley sits along Route 2 between Greenfield and Erving. The current 16-car lot fills up fast on weekends. When it's full, you can use the Franklin Regional Transit Authority shuttle service. Park at the Erving Municipal Lot on West Main Street, then use the FRTA Access Transit app to request a ride to the trailhead for $3.

A $5 donation at the trailhead kiosk helps maintain trails and support ongoing conservation work.

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Being a Responsible Visitor

Access at Farley exists because climbers have proven they can be good stewards. Stay on marked trails to protect vegetation. Pack out everything you bring in and brush excessive chalk off holds when you're done climbing.

Respect private property boundaries and honor any seasonal closure signs for nesting birds.

How You Can Help

WMCC needs volunteers to build the new trail system and parking area. They host regular work days where you can help with trail construction and site preparation.

Financial contributions help WMCC pay down loans and fund ongoing maintenance. Check the WMCC website for volunteer opportunities and donation information.

What Comes Next

The new parcel won't open immediately. WMCC needs to build infrastructure before welcoming visitors. This work will happen in phases over the next few years.

If you want to climb at Farley, visit the WMCC website for current access information. Arrive early on weekends to secure parking, or plan to use the shuttle system. Most importantly, climb responsibly and help others do the same.

This project shows what's possible when a community works together over the long term. Farley Ledges will be here for future generations because today's climbers chose to invest in protection.

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